A properly functioning damper for coupling can result in an easy and controlled brakes. If the damper is not functioning properly, it’s evident through the savage application of brakes or’snatching’ whenever the brakes of the towing vehicle are applied.
Prior to replacing your damper,, it might be worthwhile to check the adjustments that the wheels’ brake shoes are fitted to. In some cases, brakes that are not adjusted properly can be the same as a damaged damper.
The dampers in overrun couplings are pressurized, therefore if they’re operating properly, it can be difficult to determine their performance because it takes a significant volume of pressure in order to pull the coupling back manually. It may be possible to press the coupling down by pressing the coupling head, and simulated the overrun mechanism on light braked caravans and trailers, however If you are able to move it back quickly or it feels like it is’springy it is likely that the damper is failing.
Dampers are typically very reliable and last for a long time (or numerous miles) typically however, the life span of a damper could be cut short due to a poor maintenance or driving practices. The constant braking force can shorten the life of the damper and an emergency stop could cause the damper to reach the end of its lifespan early. The most typical reason failure of dampers is inability to maintain them or the incorrect adjustment. Brakes must be calibrated and checked on a regular basis (about each six-month period for an average trailer) to ensure that the damper will not be able to withstand all the force of an overrun when the braking happens.
If you notice you have a coupling that is in need of replacing, we’ve got several brands available to select from for example:
BPW Coupling Damper
Avonride Coupling Dampers
Knott Coupling Dampers
Indespension Coupling Dampers
Alko Coupling Dampers
Bradley Coupling Dampers
Brake Adjustment
Adjusting the brake must be done by the brake shoes. slow down all the brake mechanism, including the compensator and coupling. Always start from the brake drum, and then turn the brake adjuster
Using one of the methods below dependent on the brake setup using one of the following methods:
Be sure to rotate the wheels forward direction when you perform this operation as otherwise the auto reverse mechanism may be activated and render accurate setting impossible.
Method 1
The bolt that adjusts the brake (usually located at the back of the backplate) clockwise until resistance is felt when the shoes of your brake begin to grasp the drum. After that, slowly rotate the bolt to adjust the brake counterclockwise until the wheel starts to spin freely.
Method 2
The adjuster should be moved forward by a screwdriver into the hole on the back of the backplate for the brake until the resistance feels when the shoes of your brake start to grip the drum. Slowly turn the adjuster to backwards just a few clicks until the wheel starts to spin freely.
Procedure
Repeat the process for all drums , and then pick off the excess in the coupling and the compensator.
Caution! Do not tighten too much since this could cause the brakes to slide and overheat. Use the handbrake several times to check that the brake compensators and shoes are properly placed. The compensators should be set at 90 degrees to the brake rod once the brakes come on. The misalignment can be corrected by adjustments to the locking nuts for cable. Examine the movement of the brake cables in each case, they should range between 2 and 5mm. in case it is not, adjust the brake according to. Make sure that all the drums rotate freely
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